This is the story of our time on the Kalalau trail. The trail has been named one of the top backpacking trips of a lifetime as well as one of the top ten hikes in the USA.
Photography gear
Sony A7Riii with the Sony FE 24-70mm f/2.8 GM Lens, iPhone 13 pro.
Warning signs at the start of the Kalalau trail
Our journey to the Kalalau Valley began by preparing months before we arrived on the island of Kauai. Having decided we would face the risks and attempt the trail, we started on the challenge of obtaining overnight permits. This is highly competitive and is a similar experience to buying concert tickets for your favorite artist, with permits selling out in less than 10 seconds. Permits can only be bought here: https://camping.ehawaii.gov/camping/all,details,1692.html 90 days prior at midnight Hawaii time. You also need to reserve overnight parking here: https://gohaena.com/overnight-parking-park-entry/ after obtaining your hiking permit.
We completed several training hikes at home in Seattle, Washington and then having obtained our permits, gear and camping fuel (I reserved this online from Kayak Kauai) we were excited to begin the trail.
The start of the trail
We started the Kalalau trail at sunrise. The state park employee checked our permits at 6am and we were ready to begin.
Sunrise on the Kalalau trail
The first two miles of the trail were fairly straightforward. The trail is wide and well maintained and it feels like you are wandering through a spectacular botanical garden. This first section is also accessible to day hikers.
The first lookout to the Na Pali Coast
Wild yam vine
Wild orchids
One of the best things about the Kalalau trail is the abundance of fresh water and fruits. Along the way we snacked on ripe guavas which fell from the trees around us.
Enjoying red guava on the trail
The first natural rest point along the trail is Hanakapi’ai stream. It took us about an hour and a half to get to this point and we had already had a liter and a half of water each. The heat and humidity on the trail is no joke, even in the early morning. We filtered more water at the stream and continued up from Hanakapi’ai beach.
Looking down at Hanakapi’ai stream
My camera and I on the trail
Looking back at Hanakapi’ai beach
From Hanakapi’ai the trail narrows and becomes more exposed. The next four miles are long and slow going and there is no more water until the halfway point at Hanakoa. On our way back we came across a few dehydrated hikers in this section. It is important to carry at least two liters of water per person.
Hiking along the cliff towards Hanakoa
However long and strenuous this section is, we were constantly awed and distracted by the views.
Looking back towards Hanakapi’ai
Looking forwards towards Hanakoa
My partner, Himanshu, stops to admire the famous Na Pali Coast
Around mile six comes Hanakoa stream and campground. This halfway point is where we stopped for lunch and most importantly to filter more water.
Hanakoa stream
Living wall at Hanakoa
A rest at Hanakoa is quite essential as the next section of the trail include the famous Crawler’s ledge. From here the trail becomes even narrower, more eroded and generally pretty sketchy.
Two Giant Cabuya plants mark the beginning of the Crawler’s ledge section
Crawler’s ledge demands focus and patience to navigate it safely. I was glad to have good shoes and a hiking pole.
Two hikers walk the treacherous path
Staring down from Crawler’s ledge to the rocks and sea below
Having completed this section we were eager to reach the Kalalau Valley. However it was a couple more miles on the trail before we got our first view.
Our first view of the Kalalau Cathedrals
Coming over the “red hill” and seeing the Cathedrals of the Kalalau Valley was a great reward for over nine hours on the trail. From there we were motivated to conquer the last mile to the beach where we would make camp for the night.
Crossing the Kalalau stream
After ten and a half hours of strenuous hiking we reached our campsite. We showered under Kalalau falls and pitched our tent with a view of the beach.
Making dinner on Kalalau beach, Kalalau falls in the background
We spent the rest of the evening watching the sunset and walking on the beautiful beach.
Sunset, Kalalau beach
The next day we woke up for sunrise and headed back to the trail for the hike out.
Leaving Kalalau Valley
We had two gorgeous sunny days on the trail. We even saw sea turtles below us in the waves as we hiked out along the cliffs.
Overall this is an incredible hike. It is long, (22 miles) steep (over 6000ft of elevation gain) and tiring. Proper gear and preparation are important. It was so cool to see the diversity of people challenging themselves alongside us on the trail. I am so grateful to have been able to travel here and experience the beautiful Na Pali Coast.
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